The exuberance of the 80s is adopted by the ambivalence of the 90s, between pleasure and purity. Advertising and globalization permeate the next many years. A context within the shadow of which emerges the area of interest perfumery.
Ecology, AIDS… Looking for purity, the 90s noticed the start of a serene sensuality, removed from the exacerbated sensuality of the 80s. A wave of freshness surged round aquatic notes, like L’Eau d’Issey (1992), and androgynous perfumery, in the wake of CK One (1994). Trendy, fruity florals embody a clever femininity, from Trésor by Lancôme (1990) to J’adore by Dior (1999).
In 1992, Angel by Thierry Mugler shook up perfumery with its unique accord of praline and patchouli. It was the beginning of the gourmand era, comforting in uncertain occasions. It turned established within the 2000s round caramel (Flowerbomb, 2005) or fruity notes, which even intruded into the chypre buildings. Like the best-selling Coco Mademoiselle (2001) or Miss Dior (2005).&
The glycemic indexes explode the next decade, with the success of La Vie Est Belle by Lancôme (2012) and Black Opium (2014). Powerful amber woods invite themselves in the males’s wardrobe, around “muscular” juices, like Invictus by Paco Rabanne (2013).&
On the bangs of this race for profitability, an exclusive perfumery is rising. In the 2000s, “niche” manufacturers like Diptyque, L’Artisan Parfumeur and Frédéric Malle cultivated a singular, authentic type. This growth is threatening the large homes, that are creating their own exclusive ranges.
But this development doesn't escape the king of selling: the manufacturers proliferate. A real goose with golden eyes, oud wood, extremely prized in the Center East, has imposed itself in the 2010s in the West. Nothing can stop this frenzy of launches, not even the health crisis. Nevertheless it marks a return to more cozy scents, both in selective and niche markets. &
Sophie Normand
L’article Perfume trends from 1990 to today est apparu en premier sur Galerie Joseph.
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