Created by Lucie Paulhan – 29 years previous, educated sommelier, Parisian and epicurean – and the chef Ryuya Ono – 31 years previous, formerly of Desk and Maison Sota – Magma is the brand new fusion handle in the Oberkampf district.
As quickly as we arrive, we are welcomed by a workforce of young lovers in a sober and minimalist decor with clear strains: wooden, marble, brass, and pretty fir inexperienced benches encompass a dozen tables, all of which have been taken by storm. The inventive path of the place was conceived by the duo of artists Esther Michaud and Alexandre Zhu, residents at Poush Manifesto.
We had the choice between a tasting menu with 7 surprise programs, and the a la carte menu. We took the second choice, and before starting our first course, we sampled a tasty appetizer: Japanese squash emulsion with olive oil, very smooth but with a robust style. Then, as a primary course, we tried Kermancy oysters, deliciously ready with kiwano, a tropical plant of the cucurbit household with a taste just like passion fruit, additionally referred to as «African horned cucumber.» An actual explosion in the mouth softened by a zest of uncooked cream.
The second starter is more basic, and but, right here again, we discover a daring association between Japanese radish, purple beet, parmesan cream, and saffron, which surprises our style buds. As for the dishes, the veal with candy pepper is just exquisite, while the poached guinea fowl, mussel sauce, and savoy cabbage dares to be a mild mix of land and sea, delicate and powerful at the similar time. Finally, for dessert, the candy potato and coriander ice cream millefeuille intrigues us… Verdict? Tips on how to inform you… Regressive? Complete habit for the violet candy potato cream and stylish shock with the ice cream ! A table of daring associations, balanced with delicacy and accuracy. An tackle to discover at once..
Mélissa Burckel
L’article MAGMA, A NEW ADDRESS WITH CHARACTER est apparu en premier sur Galerie Joseph.
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